Holiday update 3

Wednesday 22^nd

We drove up to the base of Mt Cook and after advice from the friendly DOC ranger we ventured up the track to the Meuller Glacier. The wind got more and more fierce and by the time we got to the second swing bridge there were 100k gusts coming through which made it a bit hairy. We stopped to eat and realised the rain was about to come down the valley so we turned around before we reached the glacier lake and raced the rain back to the car. This doesn't sound like a recipe for a fun afternoon but the wild scenery and the wind were awesome fun.

 

We raced to Twizel so Phil could go Salmon fishing and the kids and I hung out at the playground. Sure enough Phil came back with an enormous fish and we had fun carving it up and making dinner in the kitchen at Glentanner that night. (Salmon with tiny potatoes, carrots and brocoli)

Wow, that night! The wind gusted down the lake and we both thought the tent would blow over or fold up with us in it but somehow it held. In the morning there was a dusting of snow down to 1200m, not far from our tent :-)

Thursday 23^rd

We packed up our poor bruised tent and made our way to Ashburton via white bait fritters and honey nut cake in Geraldine. Phil got a haircut and a tip about a good spot to camp which lead us to the DOC camp at Peel Forrest. (Salmon sashimi and sushi)

Friday 24th

We took a day trip to Timaru stopping off at the fab op shops and 2^nd hand stores in Temuka on the way. There was time to smell the roses, admire the parrots and play on the playground before we wandered through the CBD looking at the shops and the gorgeous old buildings. Suddenly it was time to head back to camp and cook some more of the giant salmon. (Salmon with creamy pasta and hand salad)

Saturday 25^th

Off to Cheviott via Christchurch. We took the scenic route to Christchurch through lots of lovely wee towns and tried to catch up with Rebecca and Hannah in Mayfield but they weren't there yet. The junk store in Mayfield was something else, packed to the rafters with all kinds of treasures.

We took no pictures of Christchurch. After all you see and hear in the media somehow the scale of the destruction is still surprising, and overwhelmingly sad.

We've holed up in a charming motel in Cheviott with lots of pets for the girls to play with, a swimming pool and a real bed for a change. Our evening walk was delightful with the gorgeous gardens, amazing cloud formations including rainbow clouds and a couple of white bunnies to liven things up. (Poached Salmon with egg and potato salad)

Sunday 26^th

We spent Sunday poking around the mouth of the Hurunui River. Phil flicked his lure around without much success. Luckily none of the other fishermen were catching anything either. Ali found a pet rock. In the evening the girls and I stayed in and watched the Narnia movie (ooooh a bit nightmarey) while Phil went out and actually managed to hook the biggest trout ever but it spat the lure before it broke his rod luckily.

Monday 27^th

On the advice of fellow camper Tom M we have driven up the Puhi puhi valley to find a lovely wee camping spot – well loved by readers of lonely planet. We had a wee tiki through Kaikoura and saw the seal colony at the lookout. Phil took a walk up the river and found some interesting rock formations that look like the fell out of a cave.

Tuesday 28^th

We explored up the Clarence River and then went to the beach.

South Island update

Thursday 16^th

The hot pools at Hamner Springs were fabulous with an enormous water slide that you rode down on an inflatable raft thingie and a couple of smaller slides as well. The kids and I had no trouble keeping ourselves amused for the day while Phil polished off his J Grisham novel while he waited for us to finally get tired. We stayed at a lovely friendly motorcamp across the river away from the tourist madness, with laden plum trees and other kids for the children to play with.

Friday 17^th

Driving to the Wild West Coast in an old station wagon packed to the gunnels with camping gear is not everyone's cup of tea but the steak and onion pies from the bakery at Reefton certainly make it worthwhile. Seriously the best pie I've had in the last twenty years. We ended up at a charming DOC camp at Goldsborough and enjoyed exploring the mossy path past the wee bridge over the river.

Saturday 18^th

After a quick trip back to Greymouth for supplies we managed to find a nice beach and walk down to the river mouth where we found a sliver of greenstone. The kids found some good sticks for the walk and dozens of exciting stones that everyone had to come and look at. A fleet of terns greeted us at the rivermouth and we watched the fishermen for a while but neither of them were catching anything.

 That evening we met Ewan and his wife Margaret and they took the kids and I down to the stream and taught us how to pan for gold, we even managed to find a few tiny specks.

Sunday 19^th

We got away super early expecting that it was going to rain but it held off until after we got back from walking up to see the glacier at Franz Josef. The walk to the glacier was brisk and impressive with the valley walls towering on either side adorned with waterfalls at appropriate intervals. The kids practised their mountain goat jumping and skipping the whole way back to the car – just as well, the first raindrops fell as we arrived back to the car. The west coast rain forest, clear lakes, rushing rivers and windy windy roads raced by the window as we made our way to Haast (what a hole!). Luckily we found a bunkroom at a friendly motorcamp at Haast Beach so we didn't have to pitch the tent in the rain.

Monday 20^th

A fine and pleasant morning greeted us on our rising so we headed off through the Haast Pass through to Wanaka. Rugged mountains soared from their bush clad valleys to extraordinary heights and then gave way to wide river valleys. The trees were dripping with life, waterfalls around every corner, and the rivers all with their own character, some wild, some meandering, all making their way down – golly gosh it was totally stunning! We had some morning tea at a spot called Pleasant Flat and well named it was too!

Then we were through the Pass and we tumbled out next to Lake …..? Someone had been having a bit of a laugh and filled the lake with blue colour and it looked completely ridiculous against the tussocky brown of the hills behind. After a further wind through the high country hills we emerged again to find Lake …..... where we paused for photos and then again for an ice-cream at the other end. Again someone had been playing with the colours!

Half an hour later we arrived at Wanaka and had a wander at the lake front, the kids played at the playground and we restocked. Between the jet boats, motorcycles, whipper snippers and waterskiiers Wanaka was a bit noisy for us so we found a spot out of town to camp.

Tuesday 21^st

The girls were such good helpers packing up that we took them for a treat to Puzzling World to explore the maze and puzzle over the illusions. Next was a swim down the lake at Wanaka but this time we went far from the madding crowd. It looked bloody freezing but the girls reckoned it was not too cold – they didn't stay in for long though. Phil and I were content to watch and guzzle cherries on the shore.

 

Late afternoon we drove through the Lindis Pass to Twizel, all breathtaking parched high country hills and the occasional improbable lake on the way. After a brief stop feeding salmon at a farm we continued up to Glentanner on the shores of Lake Pukaki (again with the silly colours) looking up at Mount Cook.

..........we're now in Temuka and heading up the East Coast but I don't want to spend all day in the library so this update ends here.  Cheers.

South Island 2014

Thursday 9^th January

After a slow get away this morning we enjoyed the drive down to Ohakune today. We popped in to see Oma Ali and Opa John on our way through and enjoyed some tasty toasties there.

The flowers were out at Hamilton Gardens and we had a go at replicating an earlier photo from when Ali was a tot with little success. We managed to get away just as the giant rain drops began to fall. There were impressive thunder clouds, a double rainbow and a sky full of gold as the sun set. Now we are all tucked up safe and warm in bed, all and all a very pleasant start to our holiday.

Friday 10^th January

Mt Ruapahu shed it's clouds to greet us when we woke this morning . After a delicious breakfast of gingercake and rice bubbles shared with a couple of cats on the deck we headed up the mountain to see what it all looks like without snow. The alpine meadows were alive with wee plants of all descriptions, little mosses and sundews, various alpine daisies, caprosmas and giant alpine buttercups growing on the streams edge. The girls drank the freezing snow melt water from the stream and walked the paths that they usually ski. BLT sammies at Ohakune and op shopping at Taihape were followed by a too lo o n g …. drive to Masterton but now we have camped in a lovely spot next to the river at Mt Holdson and are ready to jump up and catch the ferry tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday 11^th

We had an uneventful drive to Wellington and got suckered in to “bargain” shopping at the outdoors stores in the middle of town. The ferry crossing was as smooth and comfortable as one could ask for the Cook Strait with azure skies and smooth seas the whole way. We made an emergency supermarket stop in Picton and devoured our roto-chook at a picturesque roadside lookout with a fine view of a timber yard. The road around Queen Charlotte Sound was scenic as promised and we arrived at our campground destination to find we are the only ones here – apart from one lonely gold prospector who is gone from sun up to sun down.

Sunday 12^th

This morning we went exploring the freezing river pools and the rocks along the river bank, and then for a walk through an old gold mining tunnel where they diverted part of the river. On the way back to our tent we spotted some fruit trees and indulged in some scrumping of teeny tiny plums. After lunch the girls and Phil donned wetsuits and went down the rapids 70's style on lilos with much laughter and bravado. We dashed to Havelock for supplies for dinner and now Phil and the kids are indulging in a spot of evening fishing while I update the trip diary and charge the innumerable devices.

Monday 13^th

After a slow get-away from Pinedale motorcamp we wended and winded our way up to Motueka, over the Takaka Hill to Beautiful Golden Bay to find that Totaranui camp was all full up. Phil came to the rescue and found us a spot at Shambala to camp for the night.

Tuesday 14^th

Another stunning day in paradise – we packed up early and went down the beach to play. Ali, Lily and Phil made a beach house from driftwood, played with the jellyfish and found all kinds of treasure on the beach. We stopped at Takaka and then up the hill to Canaan Downs. The single lane dirt road took us through some amazing countryside full of sculptural limestone, ancient beech trees, stunning views out to the sea over Motueka and then we arrived at the abandoned festival venue with wide open paddocks of wavy grass surrounded by beech forrest. Truly a magical place to camp – wish I got a picture of the hippy toilets! In the evening we went exploring the beech forrest, it's full of caves and sink holes but without a guide we weren't game to disappear into the earth. Amazing lichen and moss grows on the trees and giant limestone outcrops lurch up from the ground.

Wednesday 15^th

Brrrrrrrr everyone was a bit cold last night and when Phil got up he found a thick layer of frost and ice over everything, we weren't expecting that in the middle of summer! The dawn chorus was the most most beautiful I've ever heard – the tuis truly outdid themselves. Phil went to commune with nature and was followed by a South Island Robin for a km before it followed him back to camp. He offered it some gingernut crumbs which were gratefully received and then it left. On the way out we stopped at the friendly ice-cream shop to feed the animals, so much fun for the kids! Ali made friends with Dierdre the white deer. It was a bit of a long drive to Hamner Springs but we made a few stops on the way, most notably at the lolly shop at Motueka and the op shop where we picked up woollen blankets for a dollar each – no more brrrrrr for us.